Compositions for imparting color and tone to the hair

ABSTRACT

The present disclosure relates to compositions for altering the tone or color of the hair, the compositions comprising at least one amino acid, at least one carboxylic acid, monoethanolamine, and at least one hair coloring agent. The disclosure also relates to methods of using the compositions.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application claims the benefit of priority to U.S. ProvisionalApplication No. 62/955,875 filed Dec. 31, 2019, which is incorporated byreference herein in its entirety.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present disclosure generally relates to compositions and methods forimparting color and/or tone to the hair.

BACKGROUND

It is known that consumers desire to use cosmetic and care compositionsthat enhance the appearance of keratinous substrates such as hair, e.g.,by changing the color, style, and/or shape of the hair, and/or byimparting various properties to hair, such as shine and conditioning.Many of the known compositions and processes for enhancing theappearance of the hair involve chemical treatment of the hair.

The process of changing the color of hair, for example, can involvedepositing an artificial color onto the hair which provides a differentshade or color to the hair, and/or lifting the color of the hair, suchas lightening the color of dark hair to lighter shades. The process oflifting the color of hair, also known as lightening, generally requiresthe use of compositions that comprise at least one oxidizing agent.

Lightening or lifting the color of the hair is typically evaluated bythe variation in tone height before and after the application of a haircolor toning composition onto hair. This variation corresponds to thedegree or level of lightening or lift. The notion of “tone” is based onthe classification of the natural shades, one tone separating each shadefrom the shade immediately following or preceding it, which is wellknown to hairstyling professionals. The tone heights or levels rangefrom 1 (black) to 10 (light blond), one unit corresponding to one tone;thus, the higher the number, the lighter the shade or the greater thedegree of lift.

In general, hair lightening or color lifting compositions and hairdyeing compositions possess an alkalinity such that these compositionshave a pH value of above 7, typically being at pH 9 and above, andgenerally require the presence of an alkalizing agent such as ammonia oran ammonia gas generating compound and/or an amine or ammonium-basedcompound in amounts sufficient to make such compositions alkaline. Thealkalizing agent causes the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing the smalloxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before theoxidation condensation process is completed. The resulting larger-sizedcolored complexes from the oxidative reaction are then trapped insidethe hair fiber, thereby permanently altering the color of the hair.While this process is effective in altering the color of the hair, thesechemical treatments can damage the hair fibers leading to decreasedstrength of the hair, as well as negatively affecting the sensorialproperties of the hair, such as the smoothness, shine, and feel. Thus,in order to reduce or avoid these drawbacks, the use of new andadditional components and treatment compositions for use before, during,or after, or as a complement to, processes for altering the color of thehair are needed.

However, the choice of such components or treatments could posedifficulties insofar as they cannot be detrimental to other cosmeticattributes such as ease and uniformity of application, rheology orviscosity properties and stability of the compositions, color depositand target shade formation, and/or result into more disadvantages suchas increased damage or a less healthy look to the hair. It wouldtherefore be desirable to provide the consumer with compositions andmethods that can treat the hair, e.g. lift the color of hair and/ordeposit color onto hair in an effective manner, while providing othercosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength, and/ora healthy appearance to the hair, but avoiding or minimizing damage tothe hair.

SUMMARY

The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for imparting colorand/or tone and/or strength to the hair. The compositions comprise atleast one amino acid, at least one carboxylic acid, monoethanolamine,and at least one hair coloring agent. The methods comprise applying thecompositions according to the disclosure to the hair.

In one embodiment, the hair color toning compositions according to thedisclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least onecarboxylic acid, (c) monoethanolamine, (d) at least one surfactantmixture comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least onesurfactant chosen from anionic and non-ionic surfactants, (e) at leastone fatty compound, (f) at least one hair coloring agent selected fromoxidative dyes, direct dyes, or combinations thereof, and (g) at leastone solvent, wherein the composition has a pH ranging from about 7 toabout 10.4. In a further embodiment, the hair color toning compositionsaccording to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) atleast one carboxylic acid, (c) monoethanolamine in an amount rangingfrom about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, relative to the weight of thecomposition, (d) at least one surfactant, (e) at least one fattycompound, (f) at least one hair coloring agent selected from oxidativedyes, direct dyes, or combinations thereof, and (g) at least onesolvent, wherein the composition has a pH ranging from about 7 to about10.4. In yet a further embodiment, the hair color toning compositionsaccording to the disclosure comprise (a) from about 0.1% to about 2%taurine by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, (b) fromabout 0.1% to about 3% citric acid by weight, relative to the weight ofthe composition, (c) from about 0.1% to about 3% monoethanolamine byweight, relative to the weight of the composition, (d) at least onesurfactant, (e) at least one fatty compound chosen from C12-C22 fattyalcohols, (f) at least one hair coloring agent selected from oxidativedyes, direct dyes, or combinations thereof, and (g) at least onesolvent, wherein the composition has a pH ranging from about 8.5 toabout 10.

The disclosure also relates to methods for altering the tone or color ofthe hair, the methods comprising mixing (i) a hair color toningcomposition comprising (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least onecarboxylic acid, (c) monoethanolamine, (d) a surfactant mixturecomprising (i) at least one amphoteric surfactant and (ii) at least onesurfactant chosen from anionic and non-ionic surfactants, (e) at leastone fatty compound, (f) at least one hair coloring agent selected fromoxidative dyes, direct dyes, or combinations thereof, and (g) at leastone solvent, wherein the hair color toning composition has a pH rangingfrom about 7 to about 10.4 with (ii) an oxidizing composition comprisingat least one oxidizing agent, and applying the mixture to the hair,wherein the mixture has a pH ranging from about 6.0 to about 6.8. In afurther embodiment, the disclosure relates to methods for altering thetone or color of the hair, the methods comprising mixing (i) a haircolor toning composition comprising (a) at least one amino acid, (b) atleast one carboxylic acid, (c) monoethanolamine, (d) at least onesurfactant, (e) at least one fatty compound, (f) at least one haircoloring agent selected from oxidative dyes, direct dyes, orcombinations thereof, and (g) at least one solvent, wherein themonoethanolamine is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% toabout 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition and thehair color toning composition has a pH ranging from about 7 to about10.4, with (ii) an oxidizing composition comprising at least oneoxidizing agent, and applying the mixture to the hair, wherein themixture has a pH ranging from about 6.0 to about 6.8. In yet a furtherembodiment, the disclosure relates to methods for altering the tone orcolor of the hair, the methods comprising mixing (i) a hair color toningcomposition comprising (a) from about 0.1% to about 2% taurine byweight, relative to the weight of the hair color toning composition, (b)from about 0.1% to about 3% citric acid by weight, relative to theweight of the hair color toning composition, (c) from about 0.1% toabout 3% monoethanolamine by weight, relative to the weight of the haircolor toning composition, (d) at least one surfactant, (e) at least onefatty compound chosen from C12-C22 fatty alcohols, (f) at least one haircoloring agent selected from oxidative dyes, direct dyes, orcombinations thereof, and (g) at least one solvent, wherein the haircolor toning composition has a pH ranging from about 8.5 to about 10,with (ii) an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizingagent, and applying the mixture to the hair, wherein the mixture has apH ranging from about 6.3 to about 6.8.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for altering thecolor or tone of the hair. The compositions comprise at least one aminoacid, at least one carboxylic acid, monoethanolamine, and at least onehair coloring agent. The methods comprise applying the compositionsaccording to the disclosure to the hair.

Compositions

Amino Acid

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one aminoacid. As used herein, the term “amino acid” includes amino acids such asproteinogenic amino acids, amino sulfonic acids, and salts thereof.

Amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylicacid group (—COOH) and an amino group (—NH₂). Amino sulfonic acids aresimple organic compounds containing both a sulfonic acid group (—SO₂OH)and an amino group (—NH₂). Accordingly, the amino acids useful accordingto the disclosure may, in certain embodiments, be selected fromcompounds of Formula (I) and Formula (II):

wherein:

-   -   R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, preferably        linear, C₁-C₅ alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally        substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl,        —C(O)—OH, —S(O)₂—OH, —C(O)—O⁻ and M⁺, and S(O)₂—O⁻ and M⁺, with        M⁺ representing a cationic counter-ion such as an alkali metal,        alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, and    -   n is 0 or 1.

The amino acids may be in their non-ionized form (I) and (II) or intheir ionized or betaine form (I′) and (II′):

wherein R and n are as defined above.

The one or more amino acids may also be in their conjugate base form(Ib) and (IIb):

wherein R and n are as defined above.

Well-known amino acids include the twenty amino acids that form theproteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino acids):alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid,glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine,phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, andvaline. The amino acids of the instant disclosure, however, are notlimited to the standard proteinogenic amino acids.

Non-limiting examples of amino sulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid,aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid,chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenolsulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, charged amino acids may be used. Non-limiting examples ofcharged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic acid, andglutamic acid. In some cases, polar amino acids are useful. Non-limitingexamples of polar amino acids include glutamine, asparagine, histidine,serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan.

In some cases, hydrophobic amino acids may be employed. Non-limitingexamples of hydrophobic amino acids include alanine, isoleucine,leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and glycine.

In certain exemplary embodiments, compositions according to thedisclosure include at least one amino acid selected from the groupconsisting of glycine, alanine, serine, beta-alanine, taurine, sodiumglycinate, sodium alaninate, sodium serinate, lithium beta-alanine,sodium taurate, or combinations thereof.

In further exemplary embodiments, compositions according to thedisclosure include only amino acids, for example, those selected fromthe group consisting of aspartic acid, cysteine, glycine, lysine,methionine, proline, tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, taurine, or asalt thereof.

In one exemplary embodiment, the compositions include at least taurine.In a further embodiment, the only amino acid in the composition istaurine. In a further embodiment, the compositions include at leastglycine. In yet a further embodiment, the only amino acid in thecomposition is glycine. In one embodiment, the compositions include bothtaurine and glycine.

The total amount of the at least one amino acid may range from about0.01% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the haircolor toning composition. For example, in some embodiments, the totalamount of the at least one amino acid may range from about 0.05% toabout 5%, such as about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2.5%, about 0.1% to about 2.4%,about 0.1% to about 2.3%, about 0.1% to about 2.2%, about 0.1% to about2.1%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1.9%, about 0.1% toabout 1.8%, about 0.1% to about 1.7%, about 0.1% to about 1.6%, about0.1% to about 1.5%, about 0.1% to about 1.4%, about 0.1% to about 1.3%,about 0.1% to about 1.2%, about 0.1% to about 1.1%, about 0.1% to about1%, about 0.1% to about 0.9%, about 0.1% to about 0.8%, about 0.1% toabout 0.7%, about 0.1% to about 0.6%, about 0.1% to about 0.5%, about0.1% to about 0.4%, or about 0.1% to about 0.3% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the hair color toning composition. In otherembodiments, the total amount of the at least one amino acid ranges fromabout 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%,about 0.5% to about 2.5%, about 0.5% to about 2.4%, about 0.5% to about2.3%, about 0.5% to about 2.2%, about 0.5% to about 2.1%, about 0.5% toabout 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.9%, about 0.5% to about 1.8%, about 0.5%to about 1.7%, about 0.5% to about 1.6%, about 0.5% to about 1.5%, about0.5% to about 1.4%, about 0.5% to about 1.3%, about 0.5% to about 1.2%,about 0.5% to about 1.1%, about 0.5% to about 1%, about 0.5% to about0.9%, about 0.5% to about 0.8%, about 0.5% to about 0.7%, or about 0.5%to about 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colortoning composition.

The total amount of the at least one amino acid may, in certainembodiments, be about 0.05%, about 0.06%, about 0.07%, about 0.08%,about 0.09%, about 0.1%, about 0.11%, about 0.12%, about 0.13%, about0.14%, about 0.15%, about 0.16%, about 0.17%, about 0.18%, about 0.19%,about 0.2%, about 0.21%, about 0.22%, about 0.23%, about 0.24%, about0.25%, about 0.26%, about 0.27%, about 0.28%, about 0.29%, about 0.3%,about 0.31%, about 0.32%, about 0.33%, about 0.34%, or about 0.35% byweight, relative to the total weight of the hair color toningcomposition. In yet further embodiments, the total amount of the aminoacid may be about 0.4%, about 0.5%, about 0.6%, about 0.7%, about 0.8%,about 0.9%, about 1%, about 1.1% about 1.2%, about 1.3%, about 1.4%,about 1.5%, about 1.6%, about 1.7% about 1.8%, about 1.9%, or about 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair color toningcomposition. It is to be understood that any of the above-recitednumbers may provide an upper or lower boundary for a range of the totalamount of the at least one amino acid.

Carboxylic Acid

The hair color toning compositions include at least one carboxylic acid.As used herein, the term “carboxylic acid” includes salts of carboxylicacids. In certain embodiments, the carboxylic acids includenon-polymeric mono, di, and/or tricarboxylic acid which are organiccompounds having one (mono), two (di), or three (tri) carboxylic acidgroups (—COOH). The non-polymeric mono, di, and tricarboxylic acids,and/or salts thereof, typically have a molecular weight of less thanabout 500 g/mol, less than about 400 g/mol, or less than about 300g/mol.

Non-limiting examples of mono-carboxylic acids, or salts thereof,include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valericacid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid,capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, lauric acid,tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid,margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lacticacid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the haircolor toning compositions include at least lactic acid and/or a saltthereof.

Non-limiting examples of di-carboxylic acids and/or salts thereofinclude oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconicacid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleicacid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid,isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid,a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the hair colortoning compositions include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid,maleic acid, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids and salts thereof includecitric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylicacid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixturethereof. In some instances, the hair color toning compositions includeat least citric acid and/or a salt thereof.

In one or more embodiments, the hair color toning composition comprisesat least one carboxylic acid selected from the group consisting ofoxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid,glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid,maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid,propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, or combinationsthereof. In one exemplary embodiment, the compositions include at leastcitric acid. In a further embodiment, the only carboxylic acid in thecomposition is citric acid.

The total amount of the at least one carboxylic acid may range fromabout 0.01% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of thehair color toning composition. For example, in some embodiments, thetotal amount of the at least one carboxylic acid may range from about0.05% to about 5%, such as about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2.5%, about 0.1% toabout 2.4%, about 0.1% to about 2.3%, about 0.1% to about 2.2%, about0.1% to about 2.1%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1.9%,about 0.1% to about 1.8%, about 0.1% to about 1.7%, about 0.1% to about1.6%, about 0.1% to about 1.5%, about 0.1% to about 1.4%, about 0.1% toabout 1.3%, about 0.1% to about 1.2%, about 0.1% to about 1.1%, about0.1% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 0.9%, about 0.1% to about 0.8%,about 0.1% to about 0.7%, about 0.1% to about 0.6%, about 0.1% to about0.5%, about 0.1% to about 0.4%, or about 0.1% to about 0.3% by weight,relative to the total weight of the hair color toning composition. Inother embodiments, the total amount of the at least one carboxylic acidranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5%to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2.5%, about 0.5% to about 2.4%, about0.5% to about 2.3%, about 0.5% to about 2.2%, about 0.5% to about 2.1%,about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.9%, about 0.5% to about1.8%, about 0.5% to about 1.7%, about 0.5% to about 1.6%, about 0.5% toabout 1.5%, about 0.5% to about 1.4%, about 0.5% to about 1.3%, about0.5% to about 1.2%, about 0.5% to about 1.1%, about 0.5% to about 1%,about 0.5% to about 0.9%, about 0.5% to about 0.8%, about 0.5% to about0.7%, or about 0.5% to about 0.6% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the hair color toning composition.

The total amount of the at least one carboxylic acid may, in certainembodiments, be about 0.05%, about 0.06%, about 0.07%, about 0.08%,about 0.09%, about 0.1%, about 0.11%, about 0.12%, about 0.13%, about0.14%, about 0.15%, about 0.16%, about 0.17%, about 0.18%, about 0.19%,about 0.2%, about 0.21%, about 0.22%, about 0.23%, about 0.24%, about0.25%, about 0.26%, about 0.27%, about 0.28%, about 0.29%, about 0.3%,about 0.31%, about 0.32%, about 0.33%, about 0.34%, about 0.35%, about0.36%, about 0.37%, about 0.38%, about 0.39%, about 0.4%, about 0.41%,about 0.42%, about 0.43%, about 0.44%, about 0.45%, about 0.46%, about0.47%, about 0.48%, about 0.49%, or about 0.5% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the hair color toning composition. It is to beunderstood that any of the above-recited numbers may provide an upper orlower boundary for a range of the total amount of the at least onecarboxylic acid.

Monoethanolamine

The hair color toning compositions according to the disclosure comprisemonoethanolamine. The monoethanolamine may be present in the compositionin an amount up to about 10%, such from about 0.001% up to about 10%, orfrom about 0.01% up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.9%, up toabout 3.8%, up to about 3.7%, up to about 3.6%, up to about 3.5%, up toabout 3.4%, up to about 3.3%, up to about 3.2%, up to about 3.1%, up toabout 3%, up to about 2.9%, up to about 2.8%, up to about 2.7%, up toabout 2.6%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2.4%, up to about 2.3%, up toabout 2.2%, up to about 2.1%, up to about 2.0%, up to about 1.9%, up toabout 1.8%, up to about 1.7%, up to about 1.6%, up to about 1.5%, up toabout 1.4%, up to about 1.3%, up to about 1.2%, up to about 1.1%, up toabout 1%, up to about 0.9%, up to about 0.8%, up to about 0.7%, up toabout 0.6%, up to about 0.5%, up to about 0.4%, up to about 0.3%, up toabout 0.2%, up to about 0.1%, or up to about 0.05% by weight, based onthe weight of the composition. By way of example, the monoethanolaminemay be present in an amount of about 0.1%, about 0.11%, about 0.12%,about 0.13%, about 0.14%, about 0.15%, about 0.16%, about 0.17%, about0.18%, about 0.19%, about 0.2%, about 0.21%, about 0.22%, about 0.23%,about 0.24%, about 0.25%, about 0.26%, about 0.27%, about 0.28%, about0.29%, about 0.3%, about 0.31%, about 0.32%, about 0.33%, about 0.34%,about 0.35%, about 0.36%, about 0.37%, about 0.38%, about 0.39%, about0.4%, about 0.5%, about 0.6%, about 0.7%, about 0.8%, about 0.9%, about1%, about 1.1%, about 1.2%, about 1.3%, about 1.4%, about 1.5%, about1.6%, about 1.7%, about 1.8%, about 1.9%, about 2%, about 2.1%, about2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about2.8%, about 2.9%, about 3%, about 3.1%, about 3.2%, about 3.3%, about3.4%, or about 3.5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Fatty Compounds

Fatty compounds (also referred to interchangeably as “fatty substances”)may be included in one or more embodiments of the invention. In someembodiments, two or more fatty compounds may be included. In furtherembodiments, such fatty compounds may be a fatty compounds other than afatty acid. As used herein, “fatty compound” means an organic compoundinsoluble in water at normal temperature (25° C.) and at atmosphericpressure (760 mmHg) (solubility below 5% and such as below 1% andfurther such as below 0.1%). Fatty compounds have in their structure achain of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chainhaving at least 6 carbon atoms. Moreover, fatty compounds are generallysoluble in organic solvents in the same conditions of temperature andpressure, for example in chloroform, ethanol, benzene ordecamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Fatty compounds are, for example, chosen from lower alkanes, fattyalcohols, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, oils such asmineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic non-silicone oils, non-siliconewaxes and silicones.

In some embodiments, the alcohols and esters have at least one linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising 6 to 30carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for example, with at least onehydroxyl group (for example 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, thesecompounds can have one to three, conjugated or unconjugated,carbon-carbon double bonds.

With regard to the lower alkanes, in some embodiments, these have from 6to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Asexamples, alkanes can be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffinssuch as isohexadecane and isodecane.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the composition ofthe disclosure, include: esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particulardiglycerol esters, especially condensates of adipic acid and ofglycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerolshas reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capricacid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particularthose sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol; arachidylpropionate, sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzol; fatty acidtriglycerides and their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; esters ofdimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate esterified on their freealcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, inparticular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen inparticular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature:bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate(Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA orLusplan PHY/IS-DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures; mangobutter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 byAarhusKarlshamn; hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil,hydrogenated rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils,such as the soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetableoil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® byAarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil); shea butter, inparticular that having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, suchas that sold under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn; cocoabutter, in particular that which is sold under the name CT Cocoa ButterDeodorized by Dutch Cocoa BV or that which is sold under the name BeurreDe Cacao NCB HD703 758 by Barry Callebaut; shorea butter, in particularthat which is sold under the name Dub Shorea T by Stearinerie Dubois;and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound is chosen fromhydrogenated vegetable oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, asoybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture,and their mixtures, and more particularly those referenced above.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the composition ofthe disclosure, include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such asperhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquidtriglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such astriglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or for example sunfloweroil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil,hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil,castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such asthose sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under thenames MIGLYOL® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojobaoil, shea butter oil; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms,linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffinoils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenatedpolyisobutene such as Parleam®. fluorinated, partially hydrocarbon oils;as fluorinated oils, non-limiting examples includeperfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, soldunder the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFLFluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanessuch as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under thenames “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the 3M Company, orbromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the companyAtochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;derivatives of perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the 3M Company.The non-silicone oils of the present invention may be employed in anamount of from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, such as from about 1%to about 5.5% by weight, and further such as from about 1.5% to about 4%by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color composition ofthe present invention, including increments and ranges therein therebetween.

The total amount of the non-silicone oils in the present invention maybe employed in an amount of from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3,4, to about 5 percent by weight, including increments and ranges thereinthere between.

As used herein, “fatty alcohol” refers to any alcohol with a carbonchain of C5 or greater, such as, for example, C8 or greater, C10 orgreater, and C12 or greater. The at least one fatty alcohol may bechosen from, for example, C9-C11 alcohols, C12-C13 alcohols, C12-C15alcohols, C12-C16 alcohols, C14-C15 alcohols, C12-C22 alcohols,arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol,cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallowalcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleylalcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallowalcohol, and tridecyl alcohol.

As used herein, “alkoxylated fatty alcohol” refers to any fatty alcoholwith a carbon chain of C5 or greater, as defined above, furthercomprising at least one alkoxy group. For example, the at least onealkoxylated fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain of C8 or greater, C10or greater, and C12 or greater. Further, for example, the at least onealkoxylated fatty alcohol may be chosen from alkoxylated polymers(including co-, ter- and homo-polymers) derived from alcohols such asglycerol (e.g. polyglyceryl derived from four glycerol molecules). Theat least one alkoxy group of the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcoholmay, for example, be derived from an alkoxylation reaction carried outwith alkylene oxide. Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxylatedfatty alcohol include any fatty alcohol comprising at least onepolyethylene glycol ether and any fatty alcohol comprising at least onepolypropylene glycol ether.

Non-limiting examples of the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcoholinclude ceteareth-2, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-6,ceteareth-7, ceteareth-8, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-11,ceteareth-12, ceteareth-13, ceteareth-14, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16,ceteareth-17, ceteareth-18, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-22, ceteareth-23,ceteareth-24, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-27, ceteareth-28, ceteareth-29,ceteareth-30, cetearel:h-33, ceteareth-34, ceteareth-40, ceteareth-50,ceteareth-55, ceteareth-60, ceteareth-80, ceteareth-100, laureth-1,laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7,laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10, laureth-11, laureth-12, laureth-13,laureth-14, laureth-15, lauretih-16, laureth-20, laureth-23, laureth-25,laureth-30, laureth-40, deceth-3, deceth-5, oleth-5, oleth-30,steareth-2, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100, cetylsteareth-12,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-5, polyglyceryl 4-lauryl ether, polyglyceryl4-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-cetyl ether,polyglyceryl 6-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-oleylcetyl ether,polyglyceryl 6-octadecyl ether, C9-C11 pareth-3, C9-C11 pareth-6,C11-C15 pareth-3, C11-C15 pareth-5, C11-C15 pareth-12, C11-C15pareth-20, C12-C15 pareth-9, C12-C15 pareth-12, and C22-C24 pareth-33.

The fatty alcohols useful according to the disclosure include, but arenot limited to, non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched, and have from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from8 to 30 carbon atoms; For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol andtheir mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol,2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleicalcohol.

The exemplary non-silicone wax or waxes that can be used in thecomposition of the disclosure are chosen from carnauba wax, candelillawax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such asolive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes offlowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by thecompany BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswaxes, or modifiedbeeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials usableaccording to the disclosure are, for example, marine waxes such as thatsold by the company SOPHIM under reference M82, waxes of polyethylene orof polyolefins in general.

The exemplary fatty acid esters are the esters of saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids andof saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono-or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being, forexample, greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, non-limiting mentions can be made ofdihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyllactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate;linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyloctanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetylisostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexylisononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate;octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates,ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates suchas isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyl, stearyl myristate,hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyllaurate, and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Further non-limiting mentions of esters can be made of the esters ofC4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the estersof mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- orpentahydroxy alcohols.

Even further non-limiting examples of esters include: diethyl sebacate;diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyladipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecylerucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryltrilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleylcitrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;diethylene glycol diisanonate; glycol distearates; and polyethyleneglycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, exemplary esters include ethyl,isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate,2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl,cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate,isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurateand isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-estersof sugars of C6-C30, such as C12-C22 fatty acids. “Sugar” as used in thedisclosure means oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds that possessseveral alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions,and having at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides,oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, non-limiting examples include sucrose, glucose,galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose,xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such asmethylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can, for example, be chosen fromthe esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and oflinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, such as C12-C22fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one tothree, conjugated or unconjugated, carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to some embodiments can be chosen from mono-, di-,tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate,behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate,arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as the oleo-palmitate,oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate mixed esters.

For example, the mono- and di-esters can be used, and such as the mono-or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate,oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose.

Non-limiting mention can be made of the product sold under the nameGLUCATE® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a dioleate ofmethylglucose.

Exemplary esters or of mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty acidinclude: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70,SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting respectively the palmitostearatesof sucrose formed from 73% of monoester and 27% of di- and tri-ester,from 61% of monoester and 39% of di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, from 52% ofmonoester and 48% of di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, from 45% of monoesterand 55% of di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, from 39% of monoester and 61% ofdi-, tri-, and tetra-ester, and the mono-laurate of sucrose; theproducts sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters for example with thereference B370 and corresponding to the behenate of sucrose formed from20% of monoester and 80% of di-triester-polyester; sucrosemono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by the company Goldschmidt under thename TEGOSOFT® PSE.

Surfactants

The hair color toning compositions comprise one or more surfactantsselected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphotericsurfactants, and mixtures thereof. In at least one exemplary embodiment,the surfactant is a surfactant mixture comprising at least oneamphoteric surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant. In a furtherembodiment, the surfactant is a surfactant mixture comprising at leastone amphoteric surfactant and at least one non-ionic surfactant. In yeta further embodiment, the surfactant is a surfactant mixture comprisingat least one non-ionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant.

The total amount of the one or more surfactants included in the haircolor toning compositions can vary, especially depending on the type ofhair color toning composition in with they are contained. The totalamount of the one or more surfactants typically ranges from about 0.1%to about 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colortoning composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Insome cases, the total amount of the one or more surfactants ranges fromabout 0.1% to about 50%, about 0.1% to about 45%, about 0.1% to about40%, about 0.1% to about 35%, about 0.1% to about 30%, about 0.1 toabout 25%, about 0.1 to about 20%, about 0.1 to about 15%, about 0.1 toabout 10%, about 0.1 to about 5%, about 0.5 to about 40%, about 0.5 toabout 35%, about 0.5 to about 30%, about 0.5 to about 25%, about 0.5 toabout 20%, about 0.5 to about 15%, about 0.5 to about 10%, about 0.5 toabout 5%, about 1% to about 40%, about 1% to about 30%, about 1% toabout 20%, about 1% to about 15%, about 1% to about 10%, or about 1% toabout 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatmentcomposition. In further embodiments, the total amount of the one or moresurfactants ranges from about trimester 15% to about 55%, about 15% toabout 50%, about 15% to about 45%, about 15% to about 40%, about 15% toabout 35%, about 15% to about 30%, about 15% to about 25%, about 20% toabout 55%, about 20% to about 50%, about 20% to about 45%, about 20% toabout 40%, about 20% to about 35%, about 20% to about 30%, about 20% toabout 25%, about 25% to about 55%, about 25% to about 50%, about 25% toabout 45%, about 25% to about 40%, about 25% to about 35%, about 25% toabout 30%, 30% to about 55%, about 30% to about 50%, about 30% to about45%, about 30% to about 40%, about 30% to about 35%, about 35% to about55%, about 35% to about 50%, about 35% to about 45%, about 35% to about40%, about 40% to about 55%, about 40% to about 50%, or about 40% toabout 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colortoning composition.

Anionic Surfactants

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic orionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups mayoptionally be chosen from the groups CO₂H, CO₂ ⁻, SO₃H, SO₃ ⁻, OSO₃H,OSO₃ ⁻ O₂PO₂H, O₂PO₂H and O₂PO₂ ²⁻.

The hair color toning compositions may include one or more anionicsurfactants. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkylsulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyltaurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates,sulfonates, and a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups ofall these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. In some cases,anionic sulfate surfactants may be excluded from the one or more anionicsurfactants. In such cases, the one or more anionic surfactants may beselected from the group consisting of acyl isethionates, acylglycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates,sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyland acyl groups of all these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbonatoms. A more exhaustive list of anionic surfactants that may beincluded in the hair color toning compositions is provided later, underthe heading “Anionic Surfactants.”

The total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants may be about 1to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colortoning composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.Furthermore, the total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants maybe about 1 to about 35%, about 1 to about 30%, about 5% to about 40%,about 5% to about 25%, about 5% to about 30%, about 10% to about 40%,about 10% to about 35%, or about 15% to about 40%.

The anionic surfactant(s) that may be used may be alkyl sulfates, alkylether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates,alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates,alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates,alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts ofalkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates,salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylicacids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts ofalkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all ofthese compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compoundscontaining from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting aphenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and thenpreferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. For example, theanionic surfactant may be chosen from sodium olefin sulfonates, e.g.sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate.

The salts of C₆-C₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylicacids may be chosen from C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C₆-C₂₄alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosenespecially from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium saltand preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and inparticular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such asthe magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned includemonoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediolsalts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal oralkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesiumsalts may be used.

Use is also made of (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl ethersulfates, which are optionally ethoxylated, comprising from 2 to 50ethylene oxide units, and a mixture thereof, in particular in the formof alkali metal salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts oramino alcohol salts. More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) arechosen from (C₁₀-C₂₀)alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular sodiumlauryl ether sulfate.

Non-Ionic Surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, e.g.,in this regard, “Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Sonpublishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), which isincorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

The total amount of the one or more non-ionic surfactants may be about 1to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colortoning composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.Furthermore, the total amount of the one or more non-ionic surfactantsmay be about 1 to about 35%, about 1 to about 30%, about 5% to about40%, about 5% to about 25%, about 5% to about 30%, about 10% to about40%, about 10% to about 35%, or about 15% to about 40%.

The non-ionic surfactant can be, for example, selected from alcohols,alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compoundsbeing ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least onefatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it beingpossible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups torange from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mentionmay also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propyleneoxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide withfatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example,from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amidescomprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils from plant origin; fatty acidesters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol;polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol(C₆-C₂₄)alkylpolyglycosides; N—(C₆-C₂₄)alkylglucamine derivatives, amineoxides such as (C₁₀-C₁₄)alkylamine oxides orN—(C₁₀-C₁₄)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and a mixture thereof.

The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen frompolyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. Theoxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropyleneunits, or a mixture thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentionedinclude: oxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ alcohols, saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ amides, esters ofsaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids and ofpolyethylene glycols, polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol, saturatedor unsaturated, oxyalkylenated plant oils, condensates of ethylene oxideand/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures.

As examples of polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, polyglycerolatedC₈-C₄₀ alcohols are preferably used. In particular, the polyglycerolatedC₈-C₄₀ alcohols correspond to the following formula:RO—[CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O]_(m)—H or RO—[CH(CH₂OH)—CH₂O]_(m)—Hin which R represents a linear or branched C₈-C₄₀ and preferably C₈-C₃₀alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of theinvention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol ofglycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcoholcontaining 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol ofglycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcoholcontaining 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether),cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcoholcontaining 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol ofglycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

According to one of the embodiments according to the present invention,the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols withfatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for examplefrom 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, andalkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number ofalkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100,such as glyceryl esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid oracids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number ofalkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;polyethylene glycol esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acidor acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a numberof alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;sorbitol esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid or acids andalkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number ofalkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferablyC₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof,preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and morepreferably from 10 to 100; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar anda C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty alcohol or alcohols; and a mixturethereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with anHLB of 18.0 or less, such as from 4.0 to 18.0, more preferably from 6.0to 15.0 and furthermore preferably from 9.0 to 13.0. The HLB is theratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in themolecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and isdescribed in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifierselection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

In some case, the nonionic surfactant is a fatty alkanolamide.Non-limiting examples of fatty alkanolamides that may be used includecocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, soyamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA,stearamide MEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA,tallowamide DEA lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA,isostearamide MEA, and a mixture thereof.

Ampohoteric Surfactants

Compositions according to the disclosure may comprise at least oneamphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactantsuseful in the compositions include, for example, optionally quaternizedsecondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which thealiphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionicgroup, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate orphosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines,sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines,(C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine,and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.For example, mention may be made of compounds classified under the INCInames sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodiumcaproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds that may be chosen include disodium cocoamphodiacetate,disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodiumcapryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodiumlauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodiumcapryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid andcocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold bythe company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol®. C2M Concentrate, thesodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 andthe product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANEHA. In certain exemplary embodiments, the amphoteric surfactants arechosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCInames coco-betaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines such as theone known under the INCI name cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixturesthereof. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactant is coco-betaine.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the amphotericsurfactant(s) in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such asfrom about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, or from about 1%to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hair Coloring Agent

The compositions according to the disclosure may comprise a haircoloring agent selected from the group consisting of oxidative dyes,direct dyes, or combinations thereof.

In embodiments comprising oxidative dyes, the oxidative dyes aregenerally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combinedwith one or more couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases may bechosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines,para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and theaddition salts thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, arepara-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine,2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine,4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline,N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline,4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline,2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine,2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-(4′-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine,2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotolueneand 3-hydroxy-1-(4′-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition saltsthereof with an acid.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine,para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition saltsthereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, forexample, areN,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol,N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition saltsthereof.

Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, arepara-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol,4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol,4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol,and the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, arepyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, forinstance 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridineand 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.

Other pyridine oxidation bases can include the3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition saltsthereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid,2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol,(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol,3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine,pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine,7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine,5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol,2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine;2-(4-dimethylpyperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and theaddition salts thereof.

More particularly, oxidation bases can be selected from3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on carbonatom 2 by:

-   -   (a) one (di)(C₁-C₆)(alkyl)amino group wherein said alkyl group        can be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium        group;    -   (b) one heterocycloalkyl group containing from 5 to 7 members        chain, and from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, potentially cationic,        potentially substituted by one or more (C₁-C₆)alkyl, such as        di(C₁-C₄)alkylpiperazinium; or    -   (c) one (C₁-C₆)alkoxy potentially substituted by one or more        hydroxy groups such as α-hydroxyalkoxy, and the addition salts        thereof.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine,2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomericforms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applicationsWO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole,3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4′-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole,4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole,4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole,1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole,4-amino-5-(2′-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole,3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole,3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole,3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the additionsalts thereof. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even morepreferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a saltthereof.

Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned includediamino-N,N-dihydro-pyrazolopyrazolones and especially those describedin patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compoundsand the addition salts thereof:2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.

4,5-Diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a saltthereof will preferentially be used as heterocyclic bases.

Compositions and/or systems according to embodiments of the disclosuremay optionally further comprise one or more couplers advantageouslychosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing or coloring ofkeratinous substrates.

Among these couplers, mention may be made especially ofmeta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols,naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also theaddition salts thereof.

Mention may be made, for example, of 2-methyl-5-aminophenol,5-N-(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol,5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol (3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol),1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene,4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene,2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene,1,3-bis(2,4-diamino-phenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline,3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol,1-ß-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol,2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole,4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine,6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,1-N-(ß-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,2,6-bis(ß-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxy-indoline,2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one,2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole,2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with anacid, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers thatmay be used in the context of the invention are especially selected fromthe addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides,hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates,tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The oxidation base(s) may be present in an amount ranging from about0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005% to 5% by weight,relative to the total weight of the system or composition comprising thesystem in which it is present.

The coupler(s), if they are present, may be present in an amount rangingfrom about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005% to 5% byweight, relative to the total weight of the system or compositioncomprising the system in which it is present.

Compositions according to embodiments of the disclosure may optionallycomprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, for examplechosen from anionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic ornonionic species, either as sole dyes or in addition to the oxidationdye(s).

Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azodirect dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanins, hemicyanins andstyryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes;tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, andnatural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

Preferably direct dyes are cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made ofthe hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (Va) and (V′a), the azo cationicdyes (VIa) and (VI′a) and the diazo cationic dyes (VIIa) below:

Het⁺-C(R^(a))═N—N(R^(b))—Ar, An⁻ (Va) Het⁺-N(Rª)—N═C(R^(b))—Ar, An⁻(V′a) Het⁺-N═N—Ar, An⁻ (VIa) Ar⁺—N═N—Ar″, An⁻ (VI′a) andHet⁺-N═N—Ar′—N═N—Ar, An⁻ (VIIa)in which formulas (Va), (V′a), (VIa), (VI′a) and (VIIa):

-   -   Het⁺ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably        bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium,        indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially        with one or more (C₁-C₈) alkyl groups such as methyl;    -   Ar⁺ representing an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl,        bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium,        particularly tri(C₁-C₈)alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium;    -   Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is        optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more        electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted        (C₁-C₈)alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (C₁-C₈)alkoxy, iii)        (di)(C₁-C₈)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl        group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C₁-C₈)alkylamino, v)        optionally substituted N—(C₁-C₈)alkyl-N-aryl(C₁-C₈)alkylamino or        alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;    -   Ar′ is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group        such as phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene,        which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or        more groups (C₁-C₈)alkyl, hydroxyl or (C₁-C₈)alkoxy;    -   Ar″ is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as        phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted,        preferentially with one or more groups (C₁-C₈)alkyl, hydroxyl,        (di)(C₁-C₈)(alkyl)amino, (C₁-C₈)alkoxy or phenyl;    -   R^(a) and R^(b), which may be identical or different, represent        a hydrogen atom or a group (C₁-C₈)alkyl, which is optionally        substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group; or        alternatively the substituent R^(a) with a substituent of Het⁺        and/or R^(b) with a substituent of Ar and/or R^(a) with R^(b)        form, together with the atoms that bear them, a        (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly, R^(a) and R^(b) represent a        hydrogen atom or a group (C₁-C₄)alkyl, which is optionally        substituted with a hydroxyl group;    -   An⁻ represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or        halide.

In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono cationicdyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (Va), (V′a) and(VIa) as defined previously. More particularly those of formulae (Va),(V′a) and (VIa) derived from the dyes described in patent applicationsWO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

Preferentially, the cationic part is derived from the followingderivatives:

with:

-   -   R¹ representing a (C₁-C₄) alkyl group such as methyl;    -   R² and R³, which are identical or different, represent a        hydrogen atom or a (C₁-C₄)alkyl group, such as methyl; and    -   R⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such        as optionally substituted (C₁-C₈)alkyl, optionally substituted        (C₁-C₈)alkoxy, or (di)(C₁-C₈)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted        on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; particularly, R⁴ is        a hydrogen atom,    -   Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH;    -   An⁻ represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or        halide.

The dye of formulae (Va-1) and (VIa-1) can be chosen from Basic Red 51,Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof:

Among the natural direct dyes, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone,alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin,protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidinand orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and inparticular henna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.

When they are present, the one or more direct dyes more particularlyrepresent from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005%to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the system or compositioncomprising the system in which it is present.

Solvent

The hair color toning compositions according to the disclosure comprisea solvent. The solvent may be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents,or combinations thereof. The solvent may be present in the hair colortoning composition in an amount ranging from about 10% to about 95% byweight, relative to the total weight of the hair color toningcomposition. For example, the total amount of solvent may range fromabout 20% to about 90%, about 20% to about 85%, about 20% to 75%, about20% to 70%, about 20% to about 65%, about 20% to about 60%, about 20% toabout 55%, about 30% to about 90%, about 30% to about 85%, about 30% to75%, about 30% to 70%, about 30% to about 65%, about 30% to about 60%,about 30% to about 55%, about 40% to about 90%, about 40% to about 85%,about 40% to 75%, about 40% to 70%, about 40% to about 65%, about 40% toabout 60%, about 40% to about 55%, about 50% to about 90%, about 50% toabout 85%, about 50% to 75%, about 50% to 70%, about 50% to about 65%,or about 50% to about 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of thehair color toning composition.

In some embodiments, the solvent comprises, consists essentially of, orconsists of water. The total amount of water in the hair color toningcompositions may vary depending on the type of composition and thedesired consistency, viscosity, etc. In some embodiments, the totalamount of water is about 10% to about 95% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the hair color toning composition, including all rangesand subranges therebetween. For example, the total amount of water maybe about 10% to about 90%, about 10% to about 85%, about 10% to 75%,about 10% to 70%, about 10% to about 65%, about 10% to about 60%, about10% to about 55%, about 10% to about 50%, about 10% to about 45%, about10% to about 40%, about 10% to about 35%, about 10% to about 30%, orabout 15% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of thehair color toning composition. It may, in at least certain embodiments,be desirable to include water in an amount less than about 60%, lessthan about 55%, less than about 50%, less than about 45%, less thanabout 40%, less than about 35%, less than about 30%, less than about25%, or less than about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe hair color toning composition. For example, the water may be presentin an amount ranging from about 1% to about 55%, about 1% to about 50%,about 1% to about 45%, about 1% to about 40%, about 1% to about 35%,about 1% to about 30%, about 1% to about 25%, about 1% to about 20%, 5%to about 55%, about 5% to about 50%, about 5% to about 45%, about 5% toabout 40%, about 5% to about 35%, about 5% to about 30%, about 5% toabout 25%, about 5% to about 20%, 10% to about 55%, about 10% to about50%, about 10% to about 45%, about 10% to about 40%, about 10% to about35%, about 10% to about 30%, about 10% to about 25%, about 10% to about20%, 15% to about 55%, about 15% to about 50%, about 15% to about 45%,about 15% to about 40%, about 15% to about 35%, about 15% to about 30%,about 15% to about 25%, or about 15% to about 20% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the hair color toning composition.

In certain embodiments, the composition comprises, consists essentiallyof, or consists of non-aqueous solvents, for example, glycerin, C₁₋₄alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters,polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipidmaterials, or any a mixture thereof. As examples of organic solvents,non-limiting mentions can be made of monoalcohols and polyols such asethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, andphenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example,monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propyleneglycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether ofpropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycolas well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethylether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examplesof organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butyleneglycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin. The organicsolvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Further non-limiting examples of solvents which may be used includealkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol,trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol,dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol,2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol,1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, andisopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether,ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether,ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethylether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycolmono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethyleneglycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether,ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butylether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether,propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether,propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propylether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethylether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycolmono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone,1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethylsulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetine, diacetine, triacetine, sulfolane,and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the water-soluble solvent may be selected from the groupconsisting of one or more glycols, C₁₋₄ alcohols, glycerin, and amixture thereof. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent is selectedfrom the group consisting of hexylene glycol, proplene glycol, caprylylglycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols includeglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol,propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol,1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol,1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol,2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol,1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof.

Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include thealiphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol,3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol,2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol,2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, and2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the non-aqueous solvents may vary, but in some casesranges from about 0.01% to about 50% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition. For example, the total amount of non-aqueoussolvents may range from about 1% to about 50%, about 2% to about 50%,about 3% to 50%, about 4% to about 50%, about 5% to about 50%, 1% toabout 40%, about 2% to about 40%, about 3% to 40%, about 4% to about40%, about 5% to about 40%, about 1% to about 35%, about 2% to about35%, about 3% to 35%, about 4% to about 35%, or about 5% to about 35% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In certainembodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents may range fromabout 1% to about 10%, about 2% to about 8%, about 3% to about 7%, about25% to about 45%, about 25% to about 40%, about 25% to about 35%, orabout 30% to about 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Thickening Agent

In some embodiments, the hair color toning composition optionallyfurther comprises a thickening agent. In other embodiments, the haircolor toning composition does not comprise a thickening agent.

The hair color toning compositions may contain one or more thickeners(also referred to as thickening agents or viscosity modifying agents).Classes of such agents include, but are not limited to, viscous liquids,such as polyethylene glycol, semisynthetic polymers, such assemisynthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such ascarbomers, poloxamers, and acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer,acrylates copolymer, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturallyoccurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodiumalginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, petroleumjelly, waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite,colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, surfactants,such as PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, emulsifiers, such asdisteareth-75 IPDI, and salts, such as sodium chloride, starches, suchas hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified orunmodified), celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, guars such ashydroxypropyl guar, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the thickening agents may include one or more associativethickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphotericassociative polymers, cationic associative polymers, nonionicassociative polymers, and a mixture thereof. A non-limiting example ofan amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates/beheneth-25methacrylatecopolymer, sold under the tradename NOVETHIX L-10 (Lubrizol).Non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include INCI name:acrylates copolymer, sold under the tradename CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1(Lubrizol), INCI name: acrylates crosspolymer-4, sold under thetradename CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 (Lubrizol), and a mixture thereof. Theassociative thickening polymers, for instance, the acrylates copolymerand/or the acrylates crosspolymer-4, may be neutralized in water or anaqueous solution with a neutralizing agent before the polymer is addedinto a hair color toning composition.

In some embodiments, the thickener is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose,cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, or combinations thereof.

The total amount of the one or more thickening agents may vary, but insome cases is about 0.1% to about 15%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about0.1% to about 8%, about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.15 to about 5%, about0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about0.1% to about 1%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 1% to about 10%, about1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 6%, or about 1% to about 5% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

pH Adjusters

The hair color toning compositions according to the disclosure have a pHranging from about 7 to about 10.4, such as from about 7.5 to about10.4, about 8 to about 10.4, about 8.5 to about 10.4, about 9 to about10.4, or about 9 to about 10. For example, the hair color toningcompositions may have a pH of about 8.5, about 8.6, about 8.7, about8.8, about 8.9, about 9.0, about 9.1, about 9.2, about 9.3, about 9.4,about 9.5, about 9.6, about 9.7, about 9.8, about 9.9, 10.0, about 10.1,about 10.2, about 10.3, or about 10.4. The composition may therefore,optionally contain acid and alkali pH adjusters, which are well known inthe art in the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair. SuchpH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate,silicate compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and carbonate compounds.

Additional Components

The composition according to the disclosure may optionally comprise anyauxiliary or additional component suitable for use in cosmeticcompositions, and in particular suitable for hair color toningcompositions. Such components may include, but are not limited to,dyes/pigments in addition to those listed above, silicone compounds,rheology modifying agents such as acrylic polymers, cationic, nonionic,amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic,cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures,film forming agents or polymers, humectants and moisturizing agents,fatty substances other than the claimed fatty substances, emulsifyingagents other than fatty substances, fillers, structuring agents,propellants, shine agents, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants,sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents(e.g. plant extracts), for instance volatile or non-volatile, modifiedor unmodified silicones, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifiers,sunscreen agents, and antistatic agents.

Methods

It has been discovered that compositions according to the disclosuresurprisingly impart improved properties to the hair, such as improvedstrength, shine, conditioning, feel, detangling, and/or combability,while also imparting excellent color and/or tone to the hair. Therefore,another aspect of the invention pertains to methods of using any of thecompositions described herein by applying the compositions to the hair.

In one embodiment, the method comprises applying the hair color toningcompositions directly to hair. In further embodiments, the methodscomprises mixing the hair color toning compositions with an oxidizingcomposition (also known as a developer composition) comprising one ormore oxidizing agents to form a mixture, and applying the mixture to thehair.

In embodiments comprising oxidizing agents, the at least one oxidizingagent may be chosen, for example, from peroxides, persulfates,perborates, percarbonates, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides,peroxygenated salts, alkali metal carbonates, or a mixture thereof.Oxidizing agents that may also be used include at least one redox enzymesuch as laccases, peroxidases, and 2-electron oxidoreductases, such asuricase, where appropriate in the presence of their respective donor orco-factor. Oxygen in the air may also be employed as an oxidizing agent.

In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent can be hydrogen peroxide presentin an aqueous solution whose titer may range from 1 to 40 volumes, suchas from 5 to 40 volumes or such as from 5 to 20 volumes.

In another embodiment, the oxidizing agent can be a persulfate and/or amonopersulfate such as, for example, potassium persulfate, sodiumpersulfate, ammonium persulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. In oneembodiment, the oxidizing agents in the present disclosure are selectedfrom hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, andmixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the oxidizing agent ishydrogen peroxide.

In general, the oxidizing agent will be present in an amount rangingfrom about 0.05 to about 50% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about30% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, or from about 1%to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the developercomposition or solution or system in which it is present.

In some embodiments, the developer composition is aqueous or is in theform of an emulsion. The developer composition can contain at least onesolvent, chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.

In alternative embodiments, the developer composition is substantiallyanhydrous. The term “substantially anhydrous” means that the developercomposition is either completely free of water or contains noappreciable amount of water, for example, no more than 5% by weight, orno more than 2% by weight, or no more than 1% by weight, based on theweight of the developer composition. It should be noted that this refersfor example to bound water, such as the water of crystallization of thesalts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in thepreparation of the compositions according to embodiments of thedisclosure.

When the developer composition is substantially anhydrous, the developercomposition may comprise at least one solvent chosen from organicsolvents. Suitable organic solvents for use in the developer compositioninclude ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, propanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, glycols and glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol,hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutylether, propylene glycol and its ethers, such as propylene glycolmonomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycolalkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monobutylether, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexyleneglycol, propane diol, glycerin, hydrocarbons such as straight chainhydrocarbons, mineral oil, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene,hydrogenated polydecene, polydecene, squalane, petrolatum, isoparaffins,and mixtures, thereof.

The organic solvents for use in the developer composition can includevolatile or non-volatile compounds. The organic solvent may, forexample, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 70% byweight, such as from about 2% to about 60% by weight, preferably fromabout 5 to about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of thedeveloper composition or system in which it is present.

The developer composition may be in the form of a powder, gel, liquid,foam, lotion, cream, mousse, and emulsion.

The pH of the developer composition can range from about 2 to about 12,such as from about 6 to about 11, and it may be adjusted to the desiredvalue using acidifying/alkalizing agents that are well known in the art.In certain embodiments, the pH of the developer composition is below 7.

The pH of the composition resulting from mixing together the hair colortoning composition and the developer composition (i.e. the mixture) mayrange from about 6.0 to about 6.8, such as about 6.0 to about 6.7, about6.0 to about 6.6, about 6.0 to about 6.5, about 6.1 to about 6.7, about6.1 to about 6.6, about 6.1 to about 6.5, about 6.2 to about 6.7, about6.2 to about 6.6, about 6.2 to about 6.5, about 6.3 to about 6.7, about6.3 to about 6.6, about 6.3 to about 6.5, about 6.4 to about 6.7, about6.4 to about 6.6, or about 6.4 to about 6.5. For example, the pH of themixture may be about 6.0, about 6.1, about 6.2, about 6.3, about 6.4,about 6.5, about 6.6, about 6.7, or about 6.8.

The hair color toning composition or the mixture may be left on the hairfor a period of time sufficient to achieve the desired effect. Forexample, the hair composition or the mixture may be left on the hair forup to one hour, such as from about 3 minutes to about 45 minutes, fromabout 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or from about 10 minutes to about20 minutes. In further embodiments, the hair color toning composition orthe mixture may be left on the hair for a period up to about 30 minutes,such as, for example, from about 1 to about 30 minutes, about 1 to about10 minutes, or about 1 to about 5 minutes. One skilled in the art willbe able to determine an appropriate amount of time to leave the haircolor toning composition or the mixture on the hair in order to achievethe desired effect. If desired, the composition may, optionally, beshampooed and/or rinsed off the hair.

Kits

Another aspect of the invention pertains to kits which comprise any ofthe hair color toning compositions described herein for use in exemplarymethods according to the disclosure. In some embodiments, the kitcomprises a hair color toning composition according to the disclosureand a developer composition, as described above. The developercomposition may be housed in a separate container from the hair colortoning composition, and may then be mixed prior to application ontohair.

According to at least one embodiment, the kits comprising thecompositions according to the disclosure and the developer compositionare free or substantially free of ammonia.

As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” (or“comprise,” “have,” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limitingsense.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural aswell as the singular.

Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” or “a combination thereof” alsorelates to “mixtures thereof” and “combinations thereof.” Throughout thedisclosure, the terms “a mixture thereof” and “a combination thereof” isused, following a list of elements as shown in the following examplewhere letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selectedfrom the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”The terms “a mixture thereof” or “a combination thereof” not requirethat the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A,B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixtureof any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In otherwords, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selectedfrom the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any twoor more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.”Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the groupconsisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,”it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included,one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, asalt of E, and a salt of F may be include, or a mixture of any two of A,B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, asalt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

The salts, for example, the salts of the amino acids, the amino sulfonicacids, and the non-polymeric mono, di, and/or tricarboxylic acids, whichare referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having acounter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammoniumcounterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting.

The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includesindividual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditionsare to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about,” meaning within +/−5% of the indicated number.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weightof the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwiseindicated.

“Keratinous substrates” as used herein, includes, but is not limited tokeratin fibers such as hair and/or scalp on the human head.

“Conditioning” as used herein means imparting to one or more hair fibersat least one property chosen from combability, moisture-retentivity,luster, shine, and/or softness. The state of conditioning can beevaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example,measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hairand of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and consumerperception.

The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refersto the application of the compositions of the present disclosure ontothe surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term “treat” (andits grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contactingkeratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the presentdisclosure.

A “rinse off” product refers to a composition such as a hair colortoning composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either afteror during the application of the composition onto the keratinoussubstrate, and before drying and/or styling said keratinous substrate.At least a portion, and typically most, of the composition is removedfrom the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing.

The term “stable” as used herein means that the composition does notexhibit phase separation and/or crystallization for a period of time,for example, for at least 1 day (24 hours), one week, one month, or oneyear.

“Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of less thanabout 100° C.

“Non-volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of greaterthan about 100° C.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specificrange within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as wellas sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein meansthat there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material addedto a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions.Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 3%, less thanabout 2%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about0.1%, or none of the specified material.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. Forexamples, any value or point described herein that falls within a rangedescribed herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive asub-range, etc.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification areherein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as ifeach individual publication or patent application were specifically andindividually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event ofan inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications orpatent application incorporated herein by reference, the presentdisclosure controls.

The following examples serve to illustrate embodiments of the presentdisclosure without, however, being limiting in nature. It will beapparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications andvariations can be made in the delivery system, composition and methodsof the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of theinvention. Thus, it is intended that the present disclosure cover themodifications and variations that come within the scope of the appendedclaims and their equivalents.

EXAMPLES

Implementation of the present disclosure is demonstrated by way of thefollowing non-limiting examples.

Example 1—Hair Toner Formulations

The following hair toner formulations according to the disclosure wereprepared.

INCI 1A 1B 1C 1D LAURYL ALCOHOL SURFACTANT 2.50000 2.50000 2.500005.00000 DECETH-3 SURFACTANT 9.00000 9.00000 9.00000 10.0000 COCAMIDEMIPA SURFACTANT 6.50000 6.50000 6.50000 7.20000 SODIUM SULFITE ACTIVE1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 COMPOUND m-AMINOPHENOL DYE/PIGMENT0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 ETHANOLAMINE ACTIVE 0.50000 0.600000.56000 0.20000 COMPOUND SODIUM C14-16 SURFACTANT 22.5000 22.500022.5000 24.5000 OLEFIN SULFONATE 2,4-DIAMINO- DYE/PIGMENT 0.009000.00900 0.00900 0.00900 PHENOXYETHANOL HCl ERYTHORBIC ACID ACTIVE0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 COMPOUND OLEYL ALCOHOL FATTY 6.000006.00000 6.00000 6.00000 COMPOUND ISOPROPYL SOLVENT 10.00000 10.0000010.00000 — ALCOHOL PROPYLENE SOLVENT 7.00000 7.00000 7.00000 7.00000GLYCOL PPG-5-CETETH-10 SURFACTANT 0.90000 0.90000 0.90000 1.00000PHOSPHATE WHEAT AMINO VEGETAL 0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 ACIDSEXTRACT PEG/PPG-4/12 SILICON 1.50000 1.50000 1.50000 1.50000 DIMETHICONE4-AMINO-2- DYE/PIGMENT 0.08000 0.08000 0.08000 0.08000 HYDROXYTOLUENEFRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 EDTA ACTIVE 0.058000.05800 0.05800 0.05800 COMPOUND COCO-BETAINE SURFACTANT 2.50000 2.500002.50000 3.00000 p-PHENYLENE- DYE/PIGMENT 0.06000 0.06000 0.06000 0.06000DIAMINE PPG-2 BUTYL SOLVENT 5.00000 5.00000 5.00000 5.00000 ETHERTAURINE ACTIVE 0.20000 1.00000 0.50000 1.00000 COMPOUND CITRIC ACIDACTIVE 0.20000 0.20000 0.20000 0.20000 COMPOUND DENATURED SOLVENT — — —10.0000 ALCOHOL WATER SOLVENT Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. pH 9.57 9.11 9.12 9.35

Example 2—Comparative Hair Toner Formulations

The following comparative hair toner formulations were prepared.

INCI 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F LAURYL ALCOHOL 2.50000 2.50000 2.50000 2.500002.50000 2.50000 DECETH-3 9.00000 9.00000 9.00000 9.00000 9.00000 9.00000COCAMIDE MIPA 6.50000 6.50000 6.50000 6.50000 6.50000 6.50000 SODIUMSULFITE 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 m-AMINOPHENOL0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 ETHANOLAMINE 0.760000.44000 0.59000 0.53000 0.41000 0.58000 SODIUM C14-16 22.50000 22.5000022.50000 22.50000 22.50000 22.50000 OLEFIN SULFONATE 2,4-DIAMINO-0.00900 0.00900 0.00900 0.00900 0.00900 0.00900 PHENOXYETHANOL HClERYTHORBIC ACID 0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 OLEYLALCOHOL 6.00000 6.00000 6.00000 6.00000 6.00000 6.00000 ISOPROPYL10.00000 10.00000 10.00000 10.00000 10.00000 10.00000 ALCOHOL PROPYLENE7.00000 7.00000 7.00000 7.00000 7.00000 7.00000 GLYCOL PPG-5-CETETH-100.90000 0.90000 0.90000 0.90000 0.90000 0.90000 PHOSPHATE WHEAT AMINO0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 ACIDS PEG/PPG-4/121.50000 1.50000 1.50000 1.50000 1.50000 1.50000 DIMETHICONE 4-AMINO-2-0.08000 0.08000 0.08000 0.08000 0.08000 0.08000 HYDROXYTOLUENE FRAGRANCE0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 EDTA 0.05800 0.058000.05800 0.05800 0.05800 0.05800 COCO-BETAINE 2.50000 2.50000 2.500002.50000 2.50000 2.50000 p-PHENYLENE- 0.06000 0.06000 0.06000 0.060000.06000 0.06000 DIAMINE PPG-2 BUTYL 5.00000 5.00000 5.00000 5.000005.00000 5.00000 ETHER TAURINE — — — — — — CITRIC ACID 1.15000 0.570000.40000 0.28000 — 0.20000 WATER Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. pH 9.529.76 9.99 10.16 10.41 9.88

Example 3—Comparative Hair Toner Formulations

The following comparative hair toner formulations were prepared.

INCI 3A 3B 3C 3D LAURYL ALCOHOL 2.50000 2.50000 2.50000 2.50000 DECETH-39.00000 9.00000 9.00000 9.00000 COCAMIDE MIPA 6.50000 6.50000 6.500006.50000 SODIUM SULFITE 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 m-AMINOPHENOL0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 0.01400 ETHANOLAMINE 0.44000 0.44000 0.440000.44000 SODIUM C14-16 22.50000 22.50000 22.50000 22.50000 OLEFINSULFONATE 2,4-DIAMINO- 0.00900 0.00900 0.00900 0.00900 PHENOXYETHANOLHCl ERYTHORBIC ACID 0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 0.15000 OLEYL ALCOHOL6.00000 6.00000 6.00000 6.00000 ISOPROPYL 10.00000 10.00000 10.0000010.00000 ALCOHOL PROPYLENE 7.00000 7.00000 7.00000 7.00000 GLYCOLPPG-5-CETETH-10 0.90000 0.90000 0.90000 0.90000 PHOSPHATE WHEAT AMINO0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 0.50000 ACIDS PEG/PPG-4/12 1.50000 1.500001.50000 1.50000 DIMETHICONE 4-AMINO-2- 0.08000 0.08000 0.08000 0.08000HYDROXYTOLUENE FRAGRANCE 0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 0.30000 EDTA 0.058000.05800 0.05800 0.05800 COCO-BETAINE 2.50000 2.50000 2.50000 2.50000p-PHENYLENE- 0.06000 0.06000 0.06000 0.06000 DIAMINE PPG-2 BUTYL 5.000005.00000 5.00000 5.00000 ETHER TAURINE — — — — CITRIC ACID 1.150000.57000 0.40000 0.28000 WATER Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. pH 5.71 6.77 8.00 8.90

Example 4—Stability Testing of Hair Toner Formulations

The following formulations were stored at either 25° C. or 45° C. andstability was evaluated visually, as set forth in the following table.

Formulation Temp Length Stability results 1A 45° C.  2 months Stable 1B25° C. 12 days Stable 45° C. 12 days Very minor separation 1C 25° C. 12days Stable 45° C. 12 days Very minor separation 2A 25° C.  1 daySeparated 3A 45° C. 11 days Separated 2B 25° C.  5 days Separated 3B 45°C. 11 days Separated 2C 45° C.  5 days Very minor separation 3C 45° C.20 days Stable 2D 45° C.  5 days Very minor separation 3D 45° C.  2months Stable 2E 45° C.  2 months Stable 2F 45° C.  2 months Stable

Example 5—Evaluation of Properties of Hair Treated with Formulations

The formulations of Examples 1A, 1B, 2A-D, and 3A-D were mixed with 6.7Vdeveloper (1:1) and applied to swatches of hair that had been bleached,rinsed, and shampooed. The formulations were left on the hair for 20minutes, and rinsed. The properties imparted to the treated hair werethen evaluated by several panels while the hair was both wet and dry.

Examples 1A and 1B, which have citric acid, ethanolamine, and taurine,were considered to provide good post-treatment wet detangling,combability, strength, and smoothness, and good dry hair strength, body,combability, and smooth look and feel. Examples 1A and 1B also providedexcellent toning, color deposit, and shine to the hair.

Examples 2C, 2E, and 2F were considered to provide good post-treatmentwet detangling, combability, and smoothness, and good dry hair smoothlook and feel, but were not considered to provide properties of wet ordry strength.

The difference in toning and shine imparted to the hair was evaluated bycomparing formulations 2A/3A; 2B/3B; 2C/3C; and 2D/3D. In eachcomparison, the hair swatch treated with the formulations of Example 2had significantly greater toning, color deposit, and shine than thosetreated with the formulations of Example 3.

Example 6—Evaluation of Strength of Treated Hair

Hair treated with formulations 1D or 2E was subjected to miniaturetensile testing (MTT) in order to evaluate the strength of the hairafter treatment. The results of both break stress and break extensiondemonstrate statistically significant improvement in the strength ofhair treated with inventive formulation 1D, compared to hair treatedwith comparative formulation 2E.

Standard Formulation Mean Deviation CV(%) CI(95) Count Break Stress 1D123.2 20.53 0.1666 6.209 42 2E 105.9 20.08 0.1895 5.679 48 BreakExtension % 1D 67.96 7.212 0.1061 2.181 42 2E 61.08 6.566 0.1075 1.85848

The above data confirms the panelists' conclusions described in Example5, i.e. that the formulations according to the disclosure providesignificantly better strength properties to the hair.

The above examples demonstrate that the formulations according to thedisclosure unexpectedly provide improved strength, smoothness, and feelto the hair, while achieving stability and superior toning, colordeposit, and shine.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A hair color toning composition comprising:(a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one carboxylic acid, (c)monoethanolamine, (d) a surfactant mixture comprising (i) at least oneamphoteric surfactant and (ii) at least one surfactant chosen fromanionic and non-ionic surfactants, (e) at least one fatty compound, (f)at least one hair coloring agent selected from oxidative dyes, directdyes, or combinations thereof, and (g) at least one solvent, wherein thecomposition has a pH ranging from about 7 to about 10.4, wherein thetotal amount of amphoteric surfactants ranges from about 0.1% to about10%, and wherein the composition is substantially free of ammonia. 2.The hair color toning composition according to claim 1, wherein the atleast one amino acid is chosen from taurine, alanine, arginine,asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine,histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine,proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine, orcombinations thereof.
 3. The hair color toning composition according toclaim 1, wherein the at least one amino acid is chosen from taurine,glycine, or combinations thereof.
 4. The hair color toning compositionaccording to claim 3, wherein the at least one amino acid is present inthe composition in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 5% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
 5. The haircolor toning composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least onecarboxylic acid is chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid,succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid,malic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid,trimesic acid, or combinations thereof.
 6. The hair color toningcomposition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one carboxylicacid is chosen from citric acid.
 7. The hair color toning compositionaccording to claim 6, wherein the at least one carboxylic acid ispresent in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01% toabout 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
 8. Thehair color toning composition according to claim 1, wherein the at leastone fatty compound is chosen from C12-C22 fatty alcohols.
 9. The haircolor toning composition according to claim 1, further comprising atleast one conditioning agent.
 10. A method for altering the tone orcolor of the hair, comprising: mixing (i) a hair color toningcomposition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least onecarboxylic acid, (c) monoethanolamine, (d) a surfactant mixturecomprising (i) at least one amphoteric surfactant and (ii) at least onesurfactant chosen from anionic and non-ionic surfactants, (e) at leastone fatty compound, (f) at least one hair coloring agent selected fromoxidative dyes, direct dyes, or combinations thereof, and (g) at leastone solvent, wherein the hair color toning composition has a pH rangingfrom about 7 to about 10.4, with (ii) an oxidizing compositioncomprising at least one oxidizing agent, and applying the mixture to thehair, wherein the mixture has a pH ranging from about 6.0 to about 6.8,wherein the total amount of amphoteric surfactants ranges from about0.1% to about 10%, and wherein the composition is substantially free ofammonia.
 11. The method according to claim 10, wherein the at least oneamino acid is chosen from taurine, alanine, arginine, asparagine,aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine,isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine,threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine, or combinations thereof.12. The method according to claim 10, wherein the at least one aminoacid is chosen from taurine, glycine, or combinations thereof.
 13. Themethod according to claim 12, wherein the at least one amino acid ispresent in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.05% toabout 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the hair color toningcomposition.
 14. The method according to claim 10, wherein the at leastone carboxylic acid is chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaricacid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaricacid, malic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid,trimesic acid, or combinations thereof.
 15. The method according toclaim 10, wherein the at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from citricacid.
 16. The method according to claim 15, wherein the at least onecarboxylic acid is present in the composition in an amount ranging fromabout 0.01% to about 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the haircolor toning composition.
 17. The method according to claim 10, whereinthe at least one fatty compound is chosen from C12-C22 fatty alcohols.18. The method according to claim 10, wherein, wherein the hair colortoning composition further comprises at least one conditioning agent.19. The method according to claim 10, wherein the at least one oxidizingagent is chosen from peroxides, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates,alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, alkali metalcarbonates, or combinations thereof.
 20. A hair color toning compositioncomprising: (a) from about 0.1% to about 2% taurine by weight, relativeto the weight of the composition, (b) from about 0.1% to about 3% citricacid by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, (c) fromabout 0.1% to about 3% monoethanolamine by weight, relative to theweight of the composition, (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant,wherein the total amount of amphoteric surfactants ranges from about0.1% to about 10%, (e) at least one fatty compound chosen from C12-C22fatty alcohols, (f) at least one hair coloring agent selected fromoxidative dyes, direct dyes, or combinations thereof, and (g) at leastone solvent, wherein the composition has a pH ranging from about 8.5 toabout 10, and wherein the composition is substantially free of ammonia.